Houseboat rental Rennes - 1 houseboat

Why Rennes Might Be the Most Unexpected Houseboat Escape in France

When most travelers think of France, images of Paris, the Riviera, or lavender fields come to mind. But tucked away in the heart of Brittany lies Rennes, the capital of this culturally distinct Celtic region, where ancient waterways invite you to experience something entirely different: a stay on a houseboat. Rennes sits at the confluence of the Ille and Vilaine rivers, positioned just 50 km from the English Channel and roughly one hour from the legendary Mont Saint-Michel. With a population of around 222,000 in the inner city, it is the tenth largest city in France and boasts one of the fastest-growing metropolitan areas in the country, second only to Toulouse.

A Waterway Heritage Perfect for Floating Getaways

The waterways around Rennes have a rich history dating back to the early 19th century. The Canal d'Ille-et-Rance, which connects to the Vilaine River at Rennes, was opened in 1843 and forms part of a cross-country north-south link between the English Channel and the Atlantic. The development of these canalized rivers in Brittany was spurred during the Napoleonic Wars when English warships blockaded the coast, prompting work on the canal system beginning in 1804.

In this region of France, houseboats are typically permanently moored along the canal banks and rivers. Unlike larger lakes where driveable US-style houseboats are common, the inland waterways of Brittany feature stationary houseboats that serve as unique floating accommodations. These vessels remain in one picturesque spot, allowing guests to use them as a home base for exploring the surrounding area. While self-drive canal boats are available for cruising the waterways, many visitors prefer the tranquility of a moored houseboat where they can simply relax and absorb the scenery without navigation duties.

The Unbeatable Allure of Staying on the Water

Booking a houseboat in Rennes offers a refreshing alternative to conventional hotels or vacation rentals. Here is why travelers are choosing this unusual accommodation:

• Immersion in nature: Wake up to the gentle sounds of water, birdsong, and the rustling of trees along the canal banks. The Brittany region is known for its lush green landscapes and abundant wildlife.
• A slower pace: Life on a houseboat encourages you to disconnect and embrace a more relaxed rhythm, perfect for couples seeking romance or families wanting quality time together.
• Central location: Rennes is easy to reach by train from Paris in just 90 minutes on the TGV high-speed line. The city also has its own airport with connections to various European destinations.
• Gateway to Brittany: From your floating home, you can explore the entire region, from coastal Saint-Malo to the mysterious forests inland.
• Authentic local experience: Staying on the water puts you in touch with a different side of France, far from the tourist crowds.

The Smaller Metro That Could: Getting Around This Compact City

Rennes holds a charming distinction: it was one of the smallest cities in the world to have a metro system, and it is fully automated. A second metro line opened in 2022, making it even easier to navigate the city from north to south. The historic centre is compact and walkable, with cobbled streets, half-timbered houses, and lively cafe terraces awaiting your exploration. Self-service bicycles are also available starting at just one euro, perfect for cycling along the scenic towpaths that follow the waterways.

Beyond the Obvious: Rennes Highlights You Should Not Miss

While the Parliament of Brittany and Saint-Pierre Cathedral deservedly attract visitors, Rennes has plenty of lesser-known treasures:

The Odorico Mosaic Trail

Rennes has a surprising Italian flair thanks to the Odorico family, who settled in the west of France and adorned the city with vibrant mosaics. You can follow a trail through the city to discover these unique works at locations including Rue Paul Bert, the Saint-Georges swimming pool, the Criée market, and the Valton building.

Parc du Thabor: Ten Hectares of Garden Perfection

Built on the highest hill in Rennes, this public park combines French-style gardens, English-style gardens, a rose garden, and a botanical garden. The park was originally the grounds of the Saint-Melaine Abbey, where monks cultivated gardens and orchards from the 8th and 9th centuries. The name Thabor refers to Mount Tabor in Israel, believed by Christians to be the site of the transfiguration of Jesus. More than 1.5 million people visit this remarkable green space each year, enjoying its sequoia trees, cascades, bandstand, and aviary.

Les Champs Libres: Where Culture Converges

This modern glass building, designed by architect Christian de Portzamparc and completed in 2008, brings a splash of contemporary style to the ancient cityscape. It houses the Brittany Museum, a regional library spanning six floors, and the Espace des Sciences with its planetarium.

Five Things to Do That Locals Love

1. Experience La Criée Publique at the Marché des Lices: Every Saturday at exactly 12:12, comedians gather near the market clock to publicly read messages that locals have dropped into mailboxes at three neighbourhood bars during the week. Poems, love letters, philosophical musings, and small ads are all read aloud in this unique socio-humorous tradition.
2. Take a day trip to Brocéliande Forest: About 45 minutes from Rennes, this legendary forest, also known as Paimpont Forest, is steeped in Arthurian legends. Explore sites associated with Merlin the Wizard, the fairy Viviane, and the Valley of No Return where Morgan la Fey allegedly imprisoned unfaithful lovers. The Comper Castle houses an Arthurian Imagination Center with exhibitions and storytelling walks.
3. Visit the Ecomusée du Pays de Rennes: Set on one of Brittany's oldest farms, the Ferme de la Bintinais covers 19 hectares and is a working farm where you can discover five centuries of local agricultural history and traditions.
4. Rent a small electric boat for an hour: Les P'tits Bateaux offers silent, easy-to-drive electric boats at Canal Saint-Martin. After a brief coaching session, spend an hour motoring along calm waters, spotting wildlife and waving to locals on the towpaths.
5. Hunt for street art: Rennes has transformed into an urban canvas with murals, installations, and creative expressions throughout the city. The Graff Tour leads you through neighbourhoods where walls have become galleries.

Saturday Mornings Belong to the Marché des Lices

For four centuries, this market has been at the heart of life in Rennes. Dating back to 1622, the Marché des Lices is the second largest food market in France and the largest outside of Paris. Every Saturday from 7:30 AM to 1:30 PM, around 300 producers, artisans, and vendors set up their stalls in the Place des Lices and the two historic Halles Martenot market halls built between 1868 and 1871. About 10,000 shoppers flock here weekly to stock up on fresh fish and seafood, artisanal cheeses, locally-made ciders, and a dazzling array of regional produce.

The one thing you absolutely must try is the galette-saucisse: a Breton pork sausage wrapped in a buckwheat galette, served with mustard and ideally accompanied by a bowl of local cider. Food trucks serve these freshly made, and the queues are well worth it. After shopping, grab a spot on one of the terrace cafes lining the square, order a drink, and soak in the atmosphere.

Practical Information for Your Houseboat Stay

Rennes enjoys an oceanic climate with mild winters and warm, pleasant summers. The best time to visit is from late spring through early autumn when the days are long and the weather is ideal for exploring both the waterways and the city.

Getting There

• By train: The TGV from Paris Montparnasse takes just 90 minutes. There are approximately 18 trains daily.
• By air: Rennes-Saint-Jacques Airport is located just a few minutes from the city with flights to various European destinations including London.
• By car: Approximately 3.5 hours from Paris via the A11 and A81 motorways.
• By ferry: Take the ferry from Portsmouth to Saint-Malo, then travel by bus or train to Rennes in about one hour.

What Makes Brittany Special

Brittany was not part of France until 1532 and remains culturally very independent to this day. The region has its own Celtic heritage, distinct traditions, and even its own language (Breton). This cultural richness translates into unique festivals, exceptional gastronomy featuring butter and seafood, and a warm, welcoming atmosphere that sets it apart from the rest of France.

Your Floating Adventure Awaits

A houseboat stay in Rennes offers something you simply cannot find in a standard hotel room: a genuine connection to the waterways that have shaped this region for centuries. Book a houseboat now and wake up to the gentle lap of water against the hull, step off your deck for a morning croissant at a local bakery, and spend your evenings watching the sunset paint the canal in golden hues. Whether you are seeking a romantic weekend escape, a family adventure, or a unique solo retreat, Rennes delivers an experience that stays with you long after you return to dry land.